Palm Express: Bus That Goes From Glaciers to Gelato

All aboard… the bus? Yes, darling. Not a train, not a cable car, not even a scenic boat. We’re talking about Switzerland’s sassiest coach ride, the Palm Express. She’s yellow, she’s curvy and she knows how to work an Alpine pass better than a mountain goat in stilettos.

Born out of Swiss brilliance (and probably a bit of mischief), the Palm Express has been winding its way from St. Moritz to Lugano since 1990. It’s like the mullet of travel routes: business up front with snowy peaks and posh ski resorts and party in the back with palm trees, gelato, and lakeside beauty.

And this isn’t your average bus ride. No screaming toddlers, no bad karaoke. This is a Swiss PostBus. It is punctual to the minute, with panoramic windows that make you feel like you're in a music video. It’s so scenic it’s officially designated a "panoramic route" by Swiss tourism bigwigs, which basically means: “Don’t even think about napping.”

Fun fact: it’s called the Palm Express not because the driver gives high-fives (though we wouldn’t be mad), but because it literally takes you from snow to palms. One ride, two climates and more elevation. So yes, the Palm Express is a bus. But it’s also a flex. A road trip wrapped in Swiss efficiency and sun-drenched charm. Catch it if you can: skip the rails, take the road, and let Switzerland show off a little.

Palm Express itinerary

St. Moritz to Lugano

Forget everything you thought you knew about scenic travel in Switzerland. The Palm Express doesn’t ride the rails; it takes the high road, the how-is-this-even-a-bus-route road. In just 130 kilometers and about 3.5 hours, the Palm Express connects the glamorous alpine resort town of St. Moritz with the sun-drenched elegance of Lugano. Along the way? You’ll swoop through hairpin turns, drop through the Maloja Pass like you're in a mountain chase scene, wave hello to Italy, flirt with Lake Como and end up in Switzerland’s slice of the Mediterranean. It’s a passport-stamping kind of day and all you had to do was hop on a bus.

St. Moritz

Your journey starts at the high-society heights of St. Moritz. This is where ski boots click on marble floors, snowflakes sparkle like paparazzi flashes and even the air feels like it has a bank account. But while most travelers stick to luxury on ice, you’re trading it all for a ride that melts into sunshine. At 10:00 a.m. sharp, the Palm Express departs from St. Moritz Bahnhof. And just like that, you’re leaving winter wonderland behind.

Chiavenna

Welcome to Italy, passport, please! Chiavenna is your mid-journey reward. It is a charming alpine town with cobblestoned charisma and Renaissance facades that make you wonder if the bus accidentally drove into a painting. No need to disembark (unless you’re chasing gelato), but the views alone are worth a mental “ciao bella.”

Menaggio

Next stop, Lake Como’s elegant shoreline. The Palm Express skirts the edge of Menaggio like it’s showing off and fair enough. This is Italian lakeside perfection: villas, vineyards and enough scenic swoon to power a rom-com montage. It’s a highlight reel of all the best things about northern Italy. And this is all served up from your comfy window seat.

Lugano

By 1:30 p.m., you’ll roll into Lugano, where the vibes have officially shifted to Mediterranean. Gone are the snow boots and ski jackets. Here, it’s sunglasses, espressos and lakefront lounging. You’ve arrived at Lugano Stazione Nord, ready for risotto, retail therapy or a lazy stroll under the palms.

Where to Stay

St. Moritz

The Palm Express doesn’t believe in overcomplicating things. It starts in St. Moritz, ends in Lugano and makes everything in between feel like the scenic bonus reel. So when it comes to where to rest your head, we’re keeping it just as focused. These are the only two official stops on the route, and frankly, they’re all you need.

• Badrutt’s Palace Hotel (5 stars): Let’s start with the legend. Badrutt’s Palace Hotel opened in 1896 and dripping in alpine glamour, this five-star institution has hosted Audrey Hepburn, Alfred Hitchcock and pretty much anyone whose name ends in “III.” Lake views, chandeliers, private butlers and a spa that could make glaciers melt. Yes, this is the place to be.
  
  

• Hotel Steffani (4 stars): Family-owned for four generations, Hotel Steffani is the cool aunt of St. Moritz hotels. It is stylish, cozy and quietly fabulous. Located right in the center, it mixes traditional Engadine charm with modern flair. You’ll find fondue nights, a fireplace lounge and even an underground nightclub.
  
  

• St. Moritz Youth Hostel: Budget doesn’t have to mean boring. Perched above town with jaw-dropping views of the lake and mountains, this hostel offers sleek, minimalist rooms, hearty breakfasts and eco-cred to spare.
  
  

Lugano

• The View Lugano (5 stars): The name says it all, and then some. The View Lugano is perched above the lake like it owns the place. Because, in a way, it does. Suites feel like designer penthouses and everything (from the lighting to the scent of the lobby) is curated to perfection. Bonus: each guest gets an electric Smart car to zip around town.
  
  

• Hotel International au Lac (4 stars): This charming, family-run classic sits right on the lakeside promenade and has been welcoming guests since 1906. It’s got vintage flair, a private garden, an outdoor pool and a tiny museum hidden inside. It’s old-school Lugano with a heart.
  
  

Where to Eat

St. Moritz

• IGNIV: Located inside the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz’s sister hotel in St. Moritz, IGNIV (which means “nest” in Romansh) turns fine dining into a warm, shareable experience. Think precision-plated dishes designed to be passed around like the world's fanciest family dinner. With Andreas Caminada’s magic touch and one Michelin star to its name, this is where you meet Switzerland’s gastronomy.
  
  

• Chesa Veglia: You can’t come to St. Moritz and not eat here. Housed in a 17th-century Engadine farmhouse, Chesa Veglia is practically a culinary time machine. It’s as local as it gets, if your locals wear Moncler.
  
  

• Cafe Hanselmann: Established in 1894, Cafe Hanselmann is the grande dame of the St. Moritz pastry scene. It’s where skiers, shoppers and snow-seekers all converge for house-made Nusstorte (nut cake) and coffee worth lingering over.

Lugano

• I Due Sud: I Due Sud blends the best of Italian and southern Swiss cuisine with meticulous flair. Executive Chef Raffaele De Mase crafts dishes that are somehow both understated and unforgettable. This Michelin-star restaurant is the place to go when your taste buds want a little opera.

• Grotto della Salute: Hidden just above the city center in a lush garden setting, Grotto della Salute is the kind of restaurant you hope never becomes too trendy. It’s all Ticinese tradition here and expect portions that make your belt nervous.

• Grand Cafe Al Porto: Grand Cafe Al Porto is less of a cafe and more of an institution. With velvet chairs, brass chandeliers and a pastry counter that could bring a tear to your eye. Whether you’re sipping cappuccino, nibbling on biscotti or writing poetry in your head, this is the place to pause.
  
  

Other Things to Do

St. Moritz

• Take the Muottas Muragl funicular: Ready for views that make your camera weep with joy? The Muottas Muragl funicular takes you up to 2,456 meters in just a few minutes, offering sweeping panoramas of the Engadine Valley and peaks that look photoshopped. There's also a mountaintop restaurant if your appetite is alpine-sized.

• Pop into the Segantini Museum: Dedicated to 19th-century painter Giovanni Segantini, this small but mighty museum showcases works that defined the Swiss alpine aesthetic. Moody skies, dramatic mountains and the kind of brushwork that makes you consider quitting your day job.

Lugano

• Cruise Lake Lugano: Swap wheels for waves and take a boat ride across this glacial lake with Mediterranean flair. You’ll float past elegant villas, forested hills and tiny fishing villages, all while sipping wine and pretending you own a yacht. Because for the next hour, you basically do.
  
  

• Visit the LAC Lugano Arte e Cultura: This is Lugano’s cultural soul. This lakeside complex is home to art exhibitions, live performances and one of Ticino’s best contemporary museums. Whether you’re into opera, modern sculpture or interpretive dance (we don’t judge), there’s always something happening here.