The Bernina Express: Europe’s Highest Alpine Railway

All aboard the Bernina Express. This is Switzerland’s ultimate showstopper on rails.

Let’s face it: in an age where speed is everything, choosing to crawl through the Alps on a train that actually slows down for the good bits sounds a little... rebellious, right? But that’s exactly what makes the Bernina Express a masterpiece in slow travel.

The Bernina Express snakes its way from Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy, crossing 196 bridges and cruising through 55 tunnels along the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway.

At one point, it climbs so high—up to 2,253 meters at the Ospizio Bernina—you’ll feel like you're riding straight into the clouds. Nature’s doing all the show here. 

Forget in-flight peanuts and highway gas stations. On this ride, your pit stops include glacial lakes, curling viaducts like the world-famous Landwasser and villages that look like they were handpicked from a fairy tale. It’s like Switzerland said “Let’s make a train that feels like a living Instagram filter.”

So sure, you could fly from Switzerland to Italy in under an hour. But where’s the magic in that? With the Bernina Express, the journey is the destination.

The Bernina Express Stops

Chur

This is where your Bernini Express adventure officially begins.

Welcome to the oldest city in Switzerland. We’re talking over 5,000 years of continuous settlement. That’s older than Rome. Older than your favorite conspiracy theory.

Don’t hop on just yet. Linger. Wander. Chur’s Altstadt (Old Town) is a fairytale maze of winding alleyways, pastel buildings, and medieval towers.

If you’re feeling artsy, head to the Bündner Kunstmuseum. This museum is housed in a striking blend of neoclassical and ultra-modern architecture. Inside, you’ll find everything from Alpine landscapes to avant-garde works by Swiss artists like Alberto Giacometti.

And oh, the food. Pull up a chair at Restaurant Marsöl, just a stone’s throw from the cathedral, and prepare to fall in love with mountain flavors. Imagine Venison, wild herbs and handmade pasta.

Chur may be historic, but she’s not shy about the finer things. For the overnight crowd, the ABC Swiss Quality Hotel is a go-to—sleek, contemporary, and conveniently located just steps from the train station.

Thusis

As the Bernina Express hums its way south from Chur, you’ll begin to feel the slow unraveling of the city's energy.

At first glance, Thusis may seem modest with no towering cathedrals or buzzing boulevards. But take a closer look. Here, you’ll find the Viamala Gorge just a short hike away. The name "Viamala" literally means "bad road," but that’s a bit of 13th-century sarcasm. The gorge is anything but bad. It’s jaw-dropping.

Luxury here isn’t flashy. It’s serene, local and steeped in nature. If you’re staying overnight, check into Hotel Weiss Kreuz, a beautifully restored historic inn with modern comforts, cozy rooms, and a wellness area that includes saunas and steam baths to melt off that travel tension.

And if you need a bit of retail therapy, then look no further. You’re in the land of handcrafted Alpine goods. Here you can get artisanal cheese, wood-carved ornaments and local wines. Drop by Molki Thusis for a quick sample of mountain cheese.

And let’s not forget, Thusis is where the Bernina Express gears up for one of its most thrilling acts: the Albula Line. Spirals, tunnels, and viaducts are just around the bend.

Tiefencastel

As the Bernina Express pulls out of Thusis, the landscape starts to tighten. Then, the train glides into Tiefencastel. This is a tiny village with a name that sounds like a medieval RPG quest and views that are anything but fiction. Step outside the station and you’ll notice something right away, it’s peaceful.

Nature lovers, lace up those boots. The Schin Gorge trail starts near here and offers sweeping views of the Albula line itself. Yes, you can actually hike alongside one of the world’s most famous train routes.

And if you’re planning to stay overnight, you can do that at Hotel Albula & Julier. This is a family-run hotel that offers Alpine hospitality with a boutique feel. Think: wood-paneled rooms, crisp linens and balconies that open to mountain views.

This hotel also has a restaurant that serves up hearty Graubünden cuisine with a touch of flair. Their Capuns? Iconic. Their rösti? Worth writing home about.

Filisur

You know how some places feel like they were created just to make your camera roll look better? Filisur is one of those places.

As the Bernina Express approaches this tiny Graubünden village, brace yourself for the main event: the Landwasser Viaduct. And no, this isn’t just some bridge. This is the bridge. Six perfectly symmetrical arches stretching 136 meters across a plunging gorge, 65 meters high, before the train disappears into a tunnel carved right into the mountainside.

Step off the train at Filisur station, and it’s like stumbling into the past, minus the plague and plus Wi-Fi.

But don’t let the rustic vibes fool you. Filisur also knows how to treat you well. Head over to Hotel Schöntal, a small but stylish retreat that makes “alpine cozy” feel like a five-star experience. This hotel also has a wellness area with a sauna and sun terrace that’s simply perfect after a long day of travel.

And if you want to stretch your legs, take the Viaduct View Trail. It’s an easy hike. Trust me, the photo from here? Frame it. It’ll make your trip look like a Swiss Railways commercial.

The Bernina Express crossing the Landwasser Viaduct.

Bergün

As the Bernina Express leaves Filisur behind and begins to twist and twirl its way through helical tunnels and mountain ledges, you’ll suddenly find yourself in Bergün.

This isn’t hyperbole: Bergün lives and breathes railways. In fact, the locals love trains so much that they passed a law banning cars from being photographed in the village because they thought they were ruining the view. (Yes, really.)

Just steps from the station is the Albula Railway Museum. Here, even non-train nerds find themselves completely enthralled. Interactive exhibits, miniature train models and historical footage make it a love letter to Swiss rail engineering.

Looking for luxury with a view? Check into the historic Hotel Kurhaus Bergün, a Belle Époque masterpiece nestled in the forested hills above the village.The hotel offers yoga on the lawn in summer and gourmet dinners every night in their wood-paneled dining hall. This historic Art Nouveau hotel operates seasonally, opening from May to October and December to April.

If you’re in town during winter, Bergün transforms into a snow-globe village. No, really. The Albula Pass is closed to cars and turns into the longest floodlit sledding run in Europe.

And if you’re hungry after all that sledding then head to Restaurant Piz Ela, named after the towering peak above the village. This is where hearty mountain dishes are done right. It’s casual, cozy and exactly what you want after a day in the crisp mountain air.

Pontresina

You’ve just hopped off the train in Pontresina. This isn’t the flashy scene of St. Moritz just around the bend. Pontresina is its quieter and more poetic cousin.

This spot is high in the Engadine at 1,805 meters. It is a symphony of stone chalets, soft sunlight and cinematic backdrops. Think Belle Époque architecture wrapped in pines, glaciers within hiking distance, and cowbells echoing off the mountainsides.

Let’s talk about Val Roseg. This car-free valley just outside the village is one of Pontresina’s star attractions. You can walk, bike or take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the forest and end up surrounded by glacier-capped peaks.

And if glaciers are your thing (they should be), hike to the snout of Morteratsch Glacier, just a few kilometers away. This is a visual timeline of climate change, marked by signs showing how far the ice has receded over the decades.

Now let’s talk about food, because Pontresina doesn’t mess around. Head to La Trattoria. It’s cozy, rustic, and unpretentiously elegant. The handmade pasta? Bellissimo.

And when it’s time to unwind, check into the Grand Hotel Kronenhof. This 5-star hotel has domed ceilings, plush interiors and a glacier-view spa.

Bernina Diavolezza

It’s not just another stop on the Bernina Express. It’s a place that makes you feel as though you’ve journeyed to the edge of the world. Arriving at Bernina Diavolezza feels like you’ve stepped into the pages of a mountain fantasy novel.

Imagine this: you step off the train, and before you can even adjust to the altitude, the sheer drama of the Diavolezza mountain range hits you. There it is, towering above you, Piz Palü. 

Here’s the fun part. Diavolezza isn’t just about looking at the mountains. It’s about living with them. You can ski or snowboard down from the top of the Diavolezza lift, where you can see the Morteratsch Glacier below. If you’re in the area during winter, the slopes here are prime for those who want a more secluded, less crowded experience.

Now, let’s talk luxury. The Refuge Diavolezza is the epitome of mountain-chic. Nestled at the foot of the towering glaciers, this modern, yet cozy hotel feels like a tranquil retreat from the everyday world.

And for a next-level experience, don’t miss the Berghaus Diavolezza, located just beside the hotel. Imagine yourself enjoying Swiss cuisine paired with views that will take your breath away. It operates seasonally, typically opening from mid-June to mid-October for the summer season and from mid-October to early May for the winter season, aligning with the cable car operations.

Ospizio Bernina

Tucked away in the heart of the Bernina Range, this remote gem sits at the highest point of the Bernina Express route, standing proudly at 2,253 meters above sea level. As you go down, you’re immediately embraced by the grandeur of the surrounding peaks.

The real magic of Ospizio Bernina lies in its location. Positioned right on the border of Switzerland and Italy, it’s the perfect blend of both cultures.

The hiking options are vast. The famous Lago Bianco provides the perfect backdrop for an afternoon stroll. The surrounding glaciers and peaks give the area a surreal, untouched feel, making it one of the most serene places on the entire route.

And then there’s the Hotel Bernina Hospiz. Experience an unparalleled welcome. Imagine an immersive stay as you are greeted by its wooden and rustic interior.

When it comes to dining, you’ll be treated to a warm, welcoming atmosphere at the Restaurant Ospizio Bernina. Here you can enjoy classic Swiss-Italian dishes with a twist while gazing at the majestic Alps just outside the window.

Alp Grüm

Hopping off Alp Grüm is like stepping into a postcard. This is a quiet retreat in the midst of the Bernina Range.

As the train pulls in, you’ll be greeted by a panoramic vista so stunning it’s almost surreal. The towering peaks of the Bernina massif, their snow-capped summits gleaming in the sunlight, and the glacier winding its way down the valley are just a few of the incredible sights that greet you here.

And if you are planning to spend the night, go to Albergo Ristorante Alp Grüm, a hidden gem perched at 2,091 meters above sea level. The hotel boasts 10 uniquely named rooms, each inspired by the majestic mountains that encircle it. It operates seasonally, generally opening from mid-June to mid-October. Due to its high-altitude location, it's closed during the winter months.

Dining at Ristorante Alp Grüm is a journey in itself. The menu features traditional Swiss and Italian dishes, prepared with locally sourced ingredients. And don’t you dare miss their fondue specialties.

Poschiavo

The perfect blend of Italian flair and Swiss alpine beauty: Poschiavo. As the train pulls away and the bustle of the Bernina Express fades, the peaceful tranquility of the city wraps you.

This is the perfect spot for outdoor adventures. You can hike up to the Lago di Poschiavo, a serene mountain lake surrounded by stunning peaks. Whether you’re trekking along the lake's edge or capturing the views from a higher vantage point, the scenery will leave you speechless.

This place is home to a number of beautiful old churches, such as the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, with its stunning frescoes that date back to the 16th century, offering a touch of history in every corner.

When hunger strikes, you’re in for a treat. One of the standout dining experiences in Poschiavo is Ristorante Pizzeria Albrici. This is located in a historic building and it serves traditional Italian-Swiss fusion cuisine with a modern twist. Think creamy risottos made with locally sourced ingredients.

For those looking to rest after a day of exploring, Hotel Albrici is the perfect spot. This is a family-run spot right in the heart of the town. Here, you’ll find comfortable rooms with a mix of Swiss alpine style and Italian elegance.

Le Prese

When you step off the train at Le Prese, you’re greeted by a world of tranquility.

The first thing you’ll notice is Lake Poschiavo itself. It’s a pristine, mirror-like body of water reflecting the surrounding mountains and forests. It’s as if the lake was created for moments of stillness. Whether you’re strolling along the lake’s shore or enjoying a boat ride, the views are so mesmerizing.

Foodies, rejoice! Even though Le Prese is small, its culinary scene is rich in flavor. Ristorante La Riva is a beloved family-run restaurant, serves up mouthwatering alpine Italian dishes. It’s located just by the lake and it serves local specialties like pasta dishes and fish meals.

For an overnight stay with lakeside elegance, Hotel Le Prese is the perfect choice. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century building, this refined hotel offers classic charm, lake-view rooms, and a serene garden setting. Its combination of heritage, comfort, and location makes it a standout stop along the Bernina Express route.

Tirano

And just like that, you roll into Tirano, Italy—the grand finale of the Bernina Express journey. Step off the train and you’re immediately greeted by sunshine, palm trees, and the scent of fresh focaccia wafting through the air.

The town’s most iconic landmark? That would be the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Tirano. This is a baroque basilica built in the 1500s. Legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared here in 1504 to stop the plague.

You’ve earned a celebration meal to end your trip and Tirano delivers. One must-visit spot is Trattoria Valtellinese. Think handmade pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta tossed with potatoes, greens, and gooey local cheese) and velvety risottos. And the interior of the spot is just Instagram-worthy.

And if you are planning to stay the night or two, then go to Hotel Centrale Tirano. This is a refined boutique stay just steps from the Bernina Express station. Its rooms are elegant, with wood accents, cozy lighting, and private balconies looking out over the mountains or the rooftops of old Tirano. Some suites even have whirlpool tubs.

Duration

On paper, it’s a tidy 4-hour and 15-minute journey from Chur to Tirano, but in reality, it’s anything but “just transportation.” It’s an all-access pass to some of the most dramatic and diverse scenery in all of Europe.

But here’s a little secret: the smartest travelers don’t stay glued to their seats for the full stretch. Why would they, when the stops along the way are practically begging you to step off and explore? Imagine stretching your legs in Pontresina, where you can take a glacier hike, or enjoying a glass of Swiss wine with views of the Palü Glacier at Alp Grüm. Some take their sweet time in St. Moritz, indulging in Michelin-star meals or lakeside spa days before reboarding.

Schedules and Tickets

The Bernina Express runs like Swiss clockwork, literally. Trains operate year-round between Chur and Tirano, with departures once or twice daily depending on the season. During the peak months of summer (June to September) and winter holidays, you’ll often find two trains per day in each direction. In quieter seasons, expect a single daily departure, usually in the morning.

Now, let’s talk logistics. Seat reservations are mandatory on the Bernina Express. Yes, even if you’re just popping on for a quick leg between scenic stops. That means no hopping aboard spontaneously. For the full stretch from Chur to Tirano, the base fare costs CHF 66 in second class or CHF 113 in first class, and the seat reservation adds an extra CHF 36 per person. That brings your total to CHF 102 in second class or CHF 149 in first class, one way. Shorter segments cost less, of course. For instance, if you're traveling from St. Moritz to Tirano, expect to pay CHF 33 for second class or CHF 57 for first, plus the CHF 36 reservation fee. If you're carrying a Swiss Travel Pass, Interrail, or Eurail Pass, your base fare may already be covered. 

Tickets and reservations can be made up to 365 days in advance via the Rhaetian Railway website, the SBB app or at most major train stations. If you're hoping for a panoramic window seat during the summer rush, we strongly suggest booking early.

Upgrade Your Bernina Express Trip

Sure, the Bernina Express is already a jaw-dropper on rails, but what if you could dial it up a notch?

Imagine reclining in a private panoramic car, where it’s just you, your travel companion and sweeping, uninterrupted views of glaciers, viaducts and valley floors through floor-to-ceiling windows.

And when you roll into Tirano, don’t just hop off and call it a day. Cap off your adventure with a gourmet lunch in town. Picture yourself seated at a white-linen table, sipping a bold Valtellina red and indulging in homemade pizzoccheri or fresh lake fish.

Treat yourself to a gourmet lunch at Merizzi, a local favorite known for its upscale take on regional classics like bresaola and pizzoccheri. And if you’re craving something a little more intimate and refined, Osteria Roncaiola, just a short taxi ride up into the hills, offers a slow-food experience with panoramic views and an award-winning wine list.